Hey Y'all

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:16 pm

Hope I've found a good forum for CB 900 Customs.

I have a 1982 with fewer than 20,000 original miles. Will have some questions.

I might have even gotten the signature thing right.

Later

Doc

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:18 pm

Howdy

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:08 pm

Hey Doc

, Looking good.

Glad to have you.

Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:43 pm

Welcome to the site Doc ... Smile

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:49 am

WElcome to here wave

Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 8:39 am

Welcome aboard Doc. Come on in and sit a spell .

Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:58 pm

I just joined. I'll tell ya about how I wound up with a CB 900 Custom.

I graduated from high school, near the beach, in 1973. The CB/CL/SL 350/450s were common bikes. First thing ya did was hacksaw off the mufflers and clamp on some Western Auto megaphones.

By the time I was 22 or so I still had the dirt bikes, but had bought my first Harley. Soon had a bad ass XLCH.

Looked at the 900 when it first came out. Interesting motorcycle, but I went and bought a new Superglide. Just couldn't buy a new Honda. Only Harley I have now is my 1982 Shovelhead Five Speed FLT, I bought new. Have more than 160,000 miles on it. Some of the coolest riding was a year in Korea.

I work for motorcycle magazines, doing everything, ad sales, layout and design, distro, photos, stories, shake hands, whatever. My main thang is motorcycle racin, specifically Harley drag racin.

For a pit bike I have a 1976 Honda Mini Trail 50. Shriner Parade Bike. Great condition, just dings in the fenders from hittin each other in parades. Original Shriner dings are OK. No kids have had it in the woods beatin it up. Just drunk old guys, same as now.

For several years, I've called on every 900 I've seen in the Iwanna. Looked at a few. Last year I found a real nice lookin two tone red 1982 with only 16,000 miles on it. Biggest problems so far are the inside of the gas tank and the front forks won't hold pressure.

I pump up the front and no rust is gettin to the filter so I ride it. Will check on tank sealers soon. Have used them in the past, but don't like them. I'd rather have a conventional spring front end. Am trying to buy a dead parts bike I know about. Looked at it Tuesday, but can't find the real owner to talk to him.

Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:03 pm

Have you thought about just using a battery charger and a sacrificial anode to suck the rust out of the tank? New fork seals should take care of that air problem. Wow that's a ton of miles on that old bike, cool

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:58 am

You probably also know that a paper fuel filter in the fuel line will help avoid many problems with rust etc. Many Posts on this subject. Smile

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:21 am

If the forks are real pitted they can be re-chromed or you can get replacements from Forking by Frank as you may know. Even new Progressive Suspension springs in these beasts will require some air pressure.

http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:51 pm

Wow Lots of info fast. I was just gettin introduced. I'll ask questions later.

I've done electrolysis for a few reasons since I was a kid. Good way to plate parts and make hydrogen and oxygen and blow them up. Don't know if I can make it work inside a gas tank. Should be able to make the tank itself the cathode and suspend the anode in the filler hole. Would need a fan for ventilation.

My fork tubes look good to me. PO had the seals replaced, etc, just before I bought it. At the recommended pressure the front end sags so bad I have to be careful where I put the kick stand. At much higher pressures it feels right to me, a little stiff, but won't hold that. One of the other old retired GIs in my little town owns a motorcycle junkyard and shop. He said even tiny scratches and pits will trash that front end. He suggested new tubes and seals.

Does that front end work well when working right? So far I don't trust air suspension. Might replace the rear shocks too.

The "How I got a 900 ..." thing was meant to be a new topic. I'll try to copy it and post again so folks see it as new and not just a reply down in this thread.

Later

Doc

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:01 pm

Ha, gotta be careful what ya say around here! Wink

Fix it kinda place ya know, and we don't limit it to bikes either, hell politics, religion, boat motors no telling on any given day. Sounds like a nice low mileage bike.

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:21 pm

The OEM springs in the front forks get tired after all this time. Try a new set of Progressive springs. You will be glad you did.

Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:25 pm

You might want to check this out doc :

http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:38 am

I have used electrolysis very nicely for many parts on my 79 L. I use a car battery to run the current from the charger through to get clean juice. I just happened to have a spare battery to do this with. I have had very good luck with the process. It is simple, easy, and a lot safer in my opinion than most of the chemical processes available. Smile

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:52 am

we have 2 docs now..all we need is a nurse or two Rolling Eyes

welcome

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:08 am

I'm studying at home to be a gynecologist. I've already drawn the pirate and sent it in so I should be getting my degree in the mail any day now

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:15 pm

A few things.

Problems I've been having with the site. My posts to the welcome section don't seem to be going through somewhere. They show in my sentbox, but not on the forum. My post as replies are working.

I didn't mean to ask tech questions in this thread.

I have Progressive Springs on my dresser, front and rear. Really want that parts bike so I can build that front end and just swap them out.

The electrolysis is about what I would have figured out. Never thought about it for "unplating" a part. Would use a good battery between charger and tank. Do y'all beat the inside with nuts and bolts? Give the tank an acid wash? Get most of the rust out first and use the electrolysis to finish it? Does the electrolysis make the rust flake off or "plate" the coat hanger wire and just seem to disappear from the tank metal.

Mine is bad. Leaks a little. I'll probably try a sealer. Hope parts bike has a good gas tank.

Doc

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:31 pm

i deleted your repeated post

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:43 pm

I just rattled around some nuts to get the big stuff loose then you can fill the tank with water and baking soda, hook the negative to the tank then suspend a junk bolt in the solution making sure it won't touch the tank with the positive charge. The rust gets drawn to the steel of the bolt. I just did the whole tank on my son's bike but with that method it removes rust under the paint too

You need to use a low amp battery charger2 -4 amp setting

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:36 am

check out pd750 previous thread, it has a nice set up for the tank cleaning. I Like Franks method as well, it is very simple, to use a plastic 32 gal trash can and then submerge the tank. Nice idea. Smile

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:22 pm

Hey Holysmokes,

I still don't see either of those messages in the "Welcome ....." list. Did I accidently post them to another list?

I assume the total tank dunk ruins the exterior paint. My tank looks good for its age on the outside. Paint is good and the stripe decal is bubbling. So what, nice aged patina. If I get the parts bike, I can strip and paint it however I want. It's already been painted once, non stock colors and graphics. I could pack the original stuff away.

Doc

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:33 pm

If there is any rust at all under the paint it will make the paint bubble as the rust tries to get out. That tank was some God awful green, we couldn't get it off fast enough. Found all the bondo under there too, we did a redo on that too

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:05 pm

I can see the trash can dunk eatin up rust all over the tank, but does it affect the outside much if I do the electrolysis just inside the tank. Like the example somebody posted.

I took the tank off yesterday and flushed out some more rust. Sealed leaks with that clear stuff. Has worked good in the past on old tanks. That sleeve inside the filler hole is a pain. Will use a swab and magnet to get out more rust and put it back on for now.

Doc

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:09 pm

No it won't touch the rust on the outside, takes the solution to complete the circuit