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Ecklund
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Joined: Apr 14, 2020
Posts: 61
Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 10:11 am Reply with quote Back to top

https://postimg.cc/QBLhCc5c

Head is on! Well mostly. Ran out of time to get the cams in.

The SS Rust and Oily Road Grime is slowly returning to life. The hunks of filthy corrosion that appeared to be engine guards are gone.

Tightening the studs with locking pliers is tedious, especially when trying to avoid damaging the head gasket. But so far it seems with my limited work space it remains marginally better than removing the motor. At least for what this engine/bike has required.

Cleaned in most areas that will be inaccessible once the engine is in. Even removed some frame rust and shot it with some spray can enamel.

Noticed the underside of the engine is very gooey and will need some attention before the exhaust goes back in.

One of the coils has a significant crack along its underside. Bike ran well until it didn't with the burnt valve but may swap in a coil with less visible damage.

Removed the rear brake master and cleaned out lots of goo. Seems to flow fluid now.

Found a set of foot pegs on eBay.

Have to start thinking of new tires pretty soon.

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genesound
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 2:30 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Cracked coils will short out and not fire plugs.

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81 CB900C, 83 CB1000C 
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Ecklund
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Joined: Apr 14, 2020
Posts: 61
Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 5:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

genesound wrote:
Cracked coils will short out and not fire plugs.


Well taken.

not sure the coil was 'bad' when the bike was running but even if it wasn't it probably wouldn't be long before it failed.

Forty y/o bike with 63K continues to present areas that need addressing.

As the Vetter will not be used, at least initially, was thinking of a slightly different handlebar bend. Perhaps a Daytona type bar. Slightly less pull back and rise and a flatter shape.

With the corroded case protectors and taped K/Q seat gone the recovered seat and new bars would give the bike a sharper look. While the 'custom' bars aren't too bad, prefer a flatter type bar.

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Ecklund
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Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2020 11:29 am Reply with quote Back to top

It has brakes!

Had to take out the caliper pistons and clean out the goo.

Since the ears and headlight came with the used parts, will use them instead of the Vetter. Was quite a process installing the ears. Cleaned off a bunch of the rust on the upper fork tubes.

Removed much of the rust from the shock springs. Still ugly but will leave them in place at least for now. They seem to function.

Cleaned up the exhaust that came in the used parts buy. It appears to be in significantly better shape than the system that was on the bike.

New aftermarket coils, tires, filters and plugs arrived. may actually be a runner soon.

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Last edited by Ecklund on Tue May 26, 2020 2:26 pm; edited 1 time in total 
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Ecklund
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Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 2:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

https://postimg.cc/QB3KT6SC

It lives! Well sort of.

After some set backs involving items falling in to the engine its substantially assembled and runs.

Still have to confirm clearance on the shims.

Still lots of goo/crud to clean before the exhaust goes back on. The oil pan and oil cooler took a while to clean by themselves.

Carbs seems good to go. Need final synch when assembled.

Received tires and most other parts for the bike to be a runner.

Cheap aftermarket coils even seem to work.

Found set of Daytona bars that were in storage. Probably install the Daytona bars since the Vetter is out and the ears and headlight are on.

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2020 12:24 am Reply with quote Back to top

https://postimg.cc/gallery/sVhFDC5

Its a runner!

Did a test fit of the carbs with the new boots and an external fuel source and it started right away and ran well enough; without an air box.

Cleaned up the outside of the carbs, insides cleaned last week, set up the air box with the 'new' chrome covers and its very close to ready for final assembly.

Removed the exhaust bracket to use with the 'new' exhaust and the old system literally fell apart. 'New' system installed with minor hardware to be complete.

Spent stupid amount of time cleaning four decades of goo off the bike. But its getting there. Will hit the forks and wheels when I swap in the new tires.

Starter, charging system, clutch and most of the electrical system appear to function. Even the new aftermarket coil worked.

Seems I will need a new speedo cable.

Installed the Daytona bars just to see how they looked/fit without the hand controls. If the cables work with the bars will probably keep them. Even though the 'new' parts came with nice stock replacement bars I'm not necessarily a fan. And since I had the Daytona set in storage I'll give them a try.

Likely a road test by next fri/sat.

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Last edited by Ecklund on Sat May 30, 2020 8:00 am; edited 1 time in total 
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genesound
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2020 2:50 am Reply with quote Back to top

Cool Cool

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NMT - New Member Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
81 CB900C, 83 CB1000C 
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Ecklund
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Joined: Apr 14, 2020
Posts: 61
Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 1:04 am Reply with quote Back to top

https://postimg.cc/gallery/Z3MPHDQ

Just had enough time today to sand down the tank and side panels and give them three coats of primer.

Probably Thursday I'll have some time to sand them down and spray can a couple of coats; black enamel.

It's a hack job but can only excuse it a bit as the stock paint on the tank and side panels has degraded horribly.

Both side panels have only one post for the emblems. Will try to use some kind of glue or mastic to secure them after painting.

Will set the current steering head bearings and see how it works. But I bought a set of front wheel bearings. Like $11 shipped. I've had bad luck with front wheel bearings in the past and this bike has considerable miles and was not maintained well.

Starter cover was rusty so I cleaned it up and sprayed it with some silver wheel paint I had. Looks OK. Way to pretty for the rest of the motor. But the idea with the bike was to keep costs down and to focus on getting a runner level operation and limit cosmetic effort.

Every time the bike has some work more 40 y/o goo is removed. Getting close to being about as clean as its going to be. Will go after the wheels when the tires get changed; Friday or Saturday.

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pd750
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Joined: Aug 01, 2007
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Location: On the road , again .

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 6:57 am Reply with quote Back to top

Ecklund wrote:


Both side panels have only one post for the emblems. Will try to use some kind of glue or mastic to secure them after painting.



You might consider using automotive trim/molding tape ...
It's thin and pretty strong stuff .
Any decent auto parts store will have it .

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Ecklund
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Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 11:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 wrote:
Ecklund wrote:


Both side panels have only one post for the emblems. Will try to use some kind of glue or mastic to secure them after painting.



You might consider using automotive trim/molding tape ...
It's thin and pretty strong stuff .
Any decent auto parts store will have it .


Good suggestion, will do.

Was thinking of stripping the parts to paint them. Read another thread on the site about a member considering the same thing. Another member questioned why strip the parts as they are painted. While the much of the paint on my bike's parts needed to be removed it was a good thought to leave in place whatever paint was already there and sticking well. So did just that. Yet another good suggestion from the forum.

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 12:05 am Reply with quote Back to top

https://postimg.cc/PCkbT0dt

It's clear this will be a 'social distance' bike. Need to stand at least six feet away and it looks OK.

Hack spray bomb paint job. Only thing that redeems it even slightly is that it is now one color without the rust and flaking clear coat.

Ran out of regular primer so used high heat primer. Not sure it will work out. We'll see.

Possible bike will be a runner Sat.

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Last edited by Ecklund on Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:38 am; edited 1 time in total 
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pd750
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:23 am Reply with quote Back to top

Yup . looks great , from my house . Laughing

Really , it looks pretty good to me .
And , paint won't get you down the road . Wink

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Got the wiring done. Still need a bulb. Used spacers between the ears and the headlight bucket. The bucket from the parts purchase had both bolt holes stripped so used bolts and nuts inside to secure. Seems to hold. Used hose clamps on the headlight ear fork surrounds. Yeah I know, hacky.

Got the bars set up and pretty close.

Tank is on and runs but have ordered a new petcock and will install a filter. May have to pull the carbs and clean out some minor residue from the tank.

Brakes seem to be working well.

Bad valve cover oil leak. Saw the gasket was poking out and talked myself into thinking it may still seal. Nope. So new gasket on the way.

Still need to synch the carbs but starts and runs well. New air filter installed.

New tires installed! Cleaned the wheels some while the tires were off. Wheels could still use some cosmetic attention. (like most of the bike)

Will leave off the highway bars/pegs and engine/case guards for now. The Vetter was far more damaged than first appeared. Will likely leave this bike 'naked'.

Will install the badges soon too. Poor paint, but the stock paint was just awful.

Getting so very close to being a reasonably reliable runner.

Will post total investment soon but it's likely about $500 and will close in on $600 when on the road. For me its probably worth the time/effort/money because its a bike with the characteristics I like.

I like the aspect of bringing a machine like this back from the dead. But it's also true that substantially similar running bikes can be purchased for very little more money.

https://postimg.cc/56bQpZpJ
https://postimg.cc/Bjw8St3Z
https://postimg.cc/VSxdtT53

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Last edited by Ecklund on Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:40 pm; edited 1 time in total 
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pd750
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:28 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Anytime we can get a bike reliably on the road for around 500 bucks , it's gotta be a good thing .

Here's what I put together for about that much , but , it was some 12 years ago , so you did better than me . Wink:
Image

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Ecklund
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Posts: 61
Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:13 pm Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 wrote:
Anytime we can get a bike reliably on the road for around 500 bucks , it's gotta be a good thing .

Here's what I put together for about that much , but , it was some 12 years ago , so you did better than me . Wink:
Image


Oh don't know about that. Yours is/was way prettier; probably ran/runs better too.

Very nice work/job. Please don't be offended, but that fairing is fairly painful to look at. Very nice bike though.

A decent head came with the bike so that helped. The PO said is was a good price from Ebay. Found out why. Had a cam saddle bolt broken off in the head. The forum gave the heads up on those and I confirmed it with this head.

Got a good parts buy too. A good guy sold me the really pretty nice exhaust, seat, headlight bucket and ears, rear signal and good battery plus other stuff for $100.

While the bike fits my preferred characteristics putting this much effort and time into a bike with 62K and obvious serious lack of maintenance is dubious at best. But I learned a lot - swore a lot too.

That the basic driveline was/is in serviceable/useful condition after sitting for so many years is testament to Honda. I have a preference for domestic stuff but there is no denying the inherent durability, value and functionality of these DOHC Hondas.

Have had older bikes that exhibited a high speed wobble/oscillation when hitting a bump in a turn. Hoping this bike will be more stable.

The shaft drive, rubber engine mounts and even bar end weights I installed should keep the vibration down. Should make a comfortable high speed runner.

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pd750
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

No worries .
That fairing cost zero dollars and served me well for the seven or so years I had the bike .
It also hid a lot of cosmetic sins that would have cost a bundle to correct .
I made it from leftover pickup box topper sheeting and an old clear snap on face shield .
And , it just happened to be very stable at any speed . Wink

The bike I paid 40 bucks for as it had a motor that was locked up real tight and the rest laid in a pile of parts headed for the scrap yard .

There are a few unique features I added , but , I was just experimenting with stuff that happened to actually work . Smile

And , if you really are into domestic products , you might like my 1957 Simplex Automatic :
Image
They were produced in New Orleans from 1935 through 1960 .

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 wrote:
Anytime we can get a bike reliably on the road for around 500 bucks , it's gotta be a good thing .

Here's what I put together for about that much , but , it was some 12 years ago , so you did better than me . Wink:
Image


If the engine ever has to come out, unlikely, I will paint it all black like you did. It would cover a world of cosmetic issues on the engine and cases.

Pulled the head and the cylinder with the engine in the frame on this one. Still not sure why that isn't a valid method.

But nice work. Especially for the $!

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:52 pm Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 wrote:
No worries .
That fairing cost zero dollars and served me well for the seven or so years I had the bike .
It also hid a lot of cosmetic sins that would have cost a bundle to correct .
I made it from leftover pickup box topper sheeting and an old clear snap on face shield .
And , it just happened to be very stable at any speed . Wink

The bike I paid 40 bucks for as it had a motor that was locked up real tight and the rest laid in a pile of parts headed for the scrap yard .

There are a few unique features I added , but , I was just experimenting with stuff that happened to actually work . Smile

And , if you really are into domestic products , you might like my 1957 Simplex Automatic :
Image
They were produced in New Orleans from 1935 through 1960 .


May I withdraw my unnecessary derogatory comment about the fairing.

That is so cool that you build it from scrap, that it covered some cosmetic issues and that it worked and for so long!

Inexpensive but effective solutions are always very interesting to me.

So yes, that Simplex is very cool indeed. Such a proportioned and balanced design. And you have done such a nice job on that bike too.

Singles are appealing too. Worked in east Africa for a number of years and there were virtually only singles there.

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pd750
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:27 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks for the compliments . Smile

That pic was taken just after I pulled it out of the barn I used to 'pretty it up' , close to 8 years ago .
It lives outside 24/7 and mother nature has shown her intent of returning all to it's natural state .
It's time , again , to take it down and redo it . What was chrome has rusted and paint has dulled . The salt air along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico did a quick job of that in only 5 months time .

It's a 125cc 2 stroke . All belt drive that can do about 50 MPH .

I can imagine there being more than a few interesting bikes running in Africa .

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genesound
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 10:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 has another unusual fix for the front cam chain tensioner bore hole plug, that I also like. Wink

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NMT - New Member Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
81 CB900C, 83 CB1000C 
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Ecklund
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Joined: Apr 14, 2020
Posts: 61
Location: Glendale, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 11:41 pm Reply with quote Back to top

genesound wrote:
pd750 has another unusual fix for the front cam chain tensioner bore hole plug, that I also like. Wink


Sorry, possibly post meal dim. Didn't follow this last post. I may have missed something.

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pd750
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 6:55 am Reply with quote Back to top

Ecklund wrote:
genesound wrote:
pd750 has another unusual fix for the front cam chain tensioner bore hole plug, that I also like. Wink


Sorry, possibly post meal dim. Didn't follow this last post. I may have missed something.


Gene is talking about :
Image

The little black plug that Honda uses to seal that tensioner bore .
When I was building my 750 motor , that plug needed replacement and I didn't want to wait . So , I came up with a quick solution using a faucet washer and a screw :
Image

This is a Yamaha that I did the same 'repair' on to give you an idea of what it looks like installed :
Image

That replacement never leaked even a hint of oil in the 7+ years that I ran that bike .

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 11:38 am Reply with quote Back to top

pd750 wrote:
Ecklund wrote:
genesound wrote:
pd750 has another unusual fix for the front cam chain tensioner bore hole plug, that I also like. Wink


Sorry, possibly post meal dim. Didn't follow this last post. I may have missed something.


Gene is talking about :
Image

The little black plug that Honda uses to seal that tensioner bore .
When I was building my 750 motor , that plug needed replacement and I didn't want to wait . So , I came up with a quick solution using a faucet washer and a screw :
Image

This is a Yamaha that I did the same 'repair' on to give you an idea of what it looks like installed :
Image

That replacement never leaked even a hint of oil in the 7+ years that I ran that bike .


Ah, got it. Thanks.

And good, durable, cheap improvisation. I like 'em.

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Ecklund
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2020 9:44 am Reply with quote Back to top

Shake down runs were informative. Learned some stuff.

Don't use soft fuel line that can be pinched/collapse. Maddening.

A fuel cap vent can become clogged after 40 years of poor maintenance and sitting for years outdoors.

Do a better job of bleeding the brakes or they don't release that well. Hot brakes.

Take the damn cell phone along even on a short shake down run.

The trip from SB to Glendale went well. Definitely need to synch up the carbs. Pretty smooth engine/bike at 5.5-6K RPM.

Replaced the speedo cable but looks like a new speedo is needed.

Need to repaint the tank with more fuel resistant paint.

Even after spending considerable time removing four decades of goo/crud/ick the bike still needs a good once over. But at least it's not the rolling infection it once was.

The seat is recovered but the foam on the drivers area is very thin. Would also be nice if I could scoot back a bit more. More foam seems right. different seat?

Replaced the valve cover gasket to fix a leak. Fixed it and ended up with a smaller but still annoying oil leak.

Is bringing back an '80 CB900c with 62K from the dead worth the effort/cost? For me probably yes. Reasonably smooth at highway speeds, very low cost/expense for a running bike and was interesting learning while reviving it. Lots of brain damage too though.

The bars are pretty close to spot on - for me. Probably get one of those manual cruise gizmos.

Good to have a bike again.

https://postimg.cc/QHFKh6bq

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