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djpj
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:33 am Reply with quote Back to top

pd750,

I read you. I'll try and run some cleaner and wire through the whole thing. Any suggestions?

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pd750
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:41 am Reply with quote Back to top

Do not use carb cleaner .

Brake cleaner cuts the crud quicker , leaves no residue and doesn't eat 'rubber'.
Follow that with a good amount of compressed air . Insure that ALL passages are clear and flowing freely .

Always wear safety glasses when ever working with chemicals .

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Whozaa
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

There's a spot in Sean's manual where he describes poking an E guitar string down through the idle jet. There's a certain depth that the string has to pass before the jet is cleared. Make sure you can get that depth.

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djpj
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:49 am Reply with quote Back to top

Ya. I heard brake cleaner works better and that blows my mind. I have an air compressor and I keep it set at 40 psi, that should work fine.

PJ

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genesound
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Joined: Jul 24, 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 2:32 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Idling poorly is generally a plugged idle fuel circuits and fuel jets or small air passages and air jets. This is mostly caused from fuel "phasing" which is basically the unequal evaporation of different chemicals in the fuel, which makes a residue that stiffens like a varnish and closes up the openings in passages over a time. The newer e-fuels are really bad about it, as well as they are hard on the rubber parts causing them to oxidise and fall apart, or swell excessively, then shrink and leak.

There are little passages all over the insides of the carb bodies and tops, so they really need to be soaked and agitated to get cleaned. Poking the wire helps during this process, so the solvent gets into the holes. There are high tech cleaners that work, but Awesome from the "99˘ Only" stores works real well. Other budget stores carry Awesome now too. Fantastik or Formula 409 should also do it, they're similar, though they're a bit more expensive. Be sure to keep an eye on the carb body color, some chemicals can cause them to discolor and look different. Also be aware some chemicals can cause Aluminum to oxidise and make a white powder dust form after it dries, so be very careful what you use, and be sure to rinse them off very well in clean water afterwards, and do a couple of rinse "cycles"

The tips of the needle valves used for the float bowls get hard, and the needles get sticky when the carbs sit, so they overflow or don't fill. Not only that, but most of the aftermarket ones that are on the market are shit, and don't even fit right, or the tips fall off, or the plating doesn't stick, they're too long or many different issues with them, so it's really best if you must have new ones to get the real ones from the dealer for $20 ea.

Also there are little thin o-rings that go on the pipes that connect the fuel rails between carbs that will fail after this many years and will need replacing sooner or later, and numerous other rubber pieces.

Viton rubber parts are best if you can get them, as they stand up to the temperature and chemicals the carbs have to handle nowadays.

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NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

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For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

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djpj
Getting up steam
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:51 am Reply with quote Back to top

Update:

Front brake lines are all put together and new fluid in them. Makes a big difference.

Checked the fuel level in the bowls and it's all good
http://imgur.com/3IcOkia

Then I sync'd them with a home made manometer. Took some brass and put some threads them to mount them to the engine.
http://imgur.com/oHRhSuJ
http://imgur.com/rD1FKk2
http://imgur.com/6d8g2fs

I didn't have the idle set right and it just sucked up the oil at first but once I got it set to about 1200-1300 the vacuum evened out and made things a lot easier. A little hookie but it works.

Carbs are running good but I think the idle mixture is too lean. It will stay idling higher for a few seconds and then come down, it has a short hiccup for a tenth of a second when applying throttle, the idle speed has to be adjusted once the engine is up to speed. So that'll be fixed next. I originally set the mixture screws to 3 turns out. It feels pretty close to what it needs.

http://imgur.com/teCwOwJ

Got the bike inspected and it passed somehow. I blew out a fork seal on the way to the inspection station. I think what happened was the forks didn't have air in them when I got it and so I added about 12 psi to it. When I started driving it the added preload must have just been too much and forced some fluid past the seal.
http://imgur.com/ZQVzkAn

So I get to change the fork seals and I might as well add some progressive springs while I'm at it. I've never done either but I have found some good step-by-step instructions for it. And if I'm doing the front I'll have to find time/money for the rear also.

New to do list:
Adjust idle mixture
Adjust throttle cable
Find a shifter rubber cover
Replace fork seals and springs
Get plates on it.

PJ

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genesound
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:19 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Yes, the seals need to be in very good condition to hold air. They should be in that good of condition even if they didn't need to hold air pressure though, just to continue working properly.

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

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djpj
Getting up steam
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Update:

Ordered some Progressive springs and some All Balls fork seals and dust seals. Should be here soon, I ordered them from Amazon.

Couple questions:
1. Does the spacer come with these springs.
2. If not, what size length and diameter will I need?
3. If so, does it need to be cut down?

I plan on putting the springs in with the tighter coils up top and I won't have to adjust the fork oil to compensate.

4. Just regular ATF - Dexron style?
5. What can I replace the air-assisted fork caps with that would allow me to remove the air hose? Any caps that will swap?
6. Am I missing/forgetting anything?

Thanks.

PJ

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seanathon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 6:19 am Reply with quote Back to top

You'll love the progressive springs. Depending on where you bought them, they may come with a piece of PVC that you can you down to size as well as a couple washers, but when I ordered mine, the spacer diameter was too wide and I had to go buy my own. PVC works great for that, as well as zinc coated washers. Measure the old springs - the spacer length should be long enough so that the new springs + the spacer match the old springs (long enough that your caps are a pain in the arse to put on)

As far as fork oil, don't use ATF (you can, but why would you?) Get 10w fork oil (or whatever weight you choose) The difference is that you can experiment with different weights for different dampening. Since ATF doesn't have a specified weight, you're sort of stuck.

As far as fork caps go, search for "Mike Nixon Fork" here on the forum. I hear his caps are great.

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1981 CB750c (Felicia)
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New members, read the NMT (New Member's Thread) HERE
Find the FSM (Factory Service Manual) and other technical documents HERE
"They're not clean until they're 'Sean G.' Clean" - Sean's (not mine - better Sean) Carb Cleaning Manual HERE
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 10:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

100%

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http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=127
link to manuals + tech threads>
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=5
valve adjust thread>
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=12173&highlight=shim
check charging video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvRe9g_2gyM
carb cleaning thread>
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=13611&highlight=carb
verifying ground
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyNYlaoInUE
checking stator
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI
checking r/r
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY
checking rotor ohms thread>
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1477&highlight=ohms
torque values thread >
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=81382#81382

http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=52
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djpj
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:11 am Reply with quote Back to top

The manual says 8.0 ounces of fork oil. Is this the correct amount when using progressive springs?

I took the forks apart and it was just sludge so I'm beyond due apparently.

Waiting on the springs to come in the mail next.

PJ

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genesound
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:50 am Reply with quote Back to top

Quote:
The manual says 8.0 ounces of fork oil. Is this the correct amount when using progressive springs?


Yes. This is a good time to do the fork seals and dust covers too then, and clean them out. Be sure to read pd750s fork document, in the Tips and Tricks area:

http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=244

Here's another :

http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=23136

And another for a 900C

http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=12937

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
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djpj
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Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks Gene. I have the All Balls forks seals and dust seals ready to be put on. I'm going to do a fair amount of cleaning too while they are apart. Those links will help.

PJ

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djpj
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2016 11:03 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Update:

Forks are done!

I purchased from Amazon
All Balls dust cap + fork seal kit. Part number: 56-115
Progressive Springs. Part number: 11-1106

I followed the directions posted by Gene as well as a youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reQ6qLQgvx0
I didn't follow the video on a few parts. Namely the use of motor oil in the forks and I believe they cut off the old fork seal while it was still on the upper fork (horrible idea).

I basically kept the upper fork in the mount until the fork was in two pieces then took it all out of the triple trees. I also ran some metal polish on the fork upper where the fork seal would glide then cleaned off the polish with some alcohol.
http://imgur.com/tRkFRwf
http://imgur.com/T8aVGEW
http://imgur.com/2FG4wIb

Then I cleaned all the parts inside and out. I used a little brake cleaner and high pressure washer. That got all the sludge out of the little spots.
http://imgur.com/ImwBfns

After I got the parts clean, I put the two halves back together as per the directions. I used the old fork seal to help drive in the new one. Then I put them back into the triple. Easy if you put them back together in the right order and remember to put the drain plug in (lost a cup of oil in that mistake).

Time to compare the new vs old springs.
New on top and old on bottom.
http://imgur.com/lX4dOte

For a spacer I used 1/2" pvc. I bought the 3/4" as the springs are 1" but I guess pvc is measured ID and I measured the springs OD. The 1/2" pvc worked well.
http://imgur.com/v0netrU

Measuring time!
Old springs - 22.75"
New springs - 19"
So spacers were cut to 3.75" and sanded the edges and cleaned them of any loose debris.
http://imgur.com/d5tsl0F

I put in fresh 8 oz of fork oil, then placed in the progressive springs with the tighter coils up top near the cap.
Tip for putting on the fork cap. Try screwing them on without the spacer in to determine where the threads lock in, remember this position. Next remove the cap and put the spacer back in. Now push the cap back on with the handle of a hammer, smallest one you got. You should now have enough room to put the 17mm wrench on the fork cap and twist that sucker until the threads are fully seated. Now you can take off that hammer and twist the cap fully on.

Reassemble and it is done.
http://imgur.com/iz9HKf4

Thanks for everyones help with this. It was way easier than I anticipated.

PJ

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AeroRamer
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Joined: May 18, 2011
Posts: 71
Location: St Johns, FL

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:02 am Reply with quote Back to top

djpj wrote:
I've completed a compression check. Dry 125, 120, 125, 140. Wet 160, 150, 170, 170. After soaking the cylinders in Marvel's Mystery Oil overnight and then running the engine back up to temperature I got some better numbers. Dry 155, 150, 160, 150.

I've also done an oil and filter change with the Shell Rotella after adding a bunch of Seafoam and MMO to the crankcase oil and running it for a good fifteen minutes, spark plug swap (looked dark and dry), added some Seafoam and MMO to the gas tank, and swapped the air filter.

PJ


I am not experienced in this area. Did you pour MMO directly into the cylinders through the spark plug hole? If so, how much and how did you remove afterwards?

I've only used SeaFoam in the past in the fuel and oil. I am thinking of doing a MMO or Auto-Rx treatment.

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1981 CB750K "La Prieta"
2004 ZZR600 "Valentina" (Street)
2004 R6 "Carolina" (Track)
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Whozaa
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:28 am Reply with quote Back to top

djpj wrote:
I've also done an oil and filter change with the Shell Rotella after adding a bunch of Seafoam and MMO to the crankcase oil and running it for a good fifteen minutes


I really shy away from putting additives of any sort in the crankcase oil. Our wet clutches can be very picky about what's in there and the wrong thing can cause them to slip.

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68 CT90

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djpj
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Joined: May 15, 2016
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Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:07 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Aero,

I took all the spark plugs out and put MMO in the cylinders using a oil can: https://www.google.com/?ion=1&espv=2#q=oil+can

I added about 5 pumps or whatever I thought would thoroughly coat the bottom of the cylinder. When I would store cars for extended periods of time I would add enough fluid until it would pour out of the spark plug hole. I don't believe that much is necessary for what I was doing.

To remove the fluid after letting it sit I would place a few layers of paper towels on top of the spark plug holes. Then cover the paper towels with some heavy sockets to keep them in place. And then proceed to turn the engine over for a few seconds, multiple times. Without the paper towels the MMO will shoot everywhere out of the holes and without the sockets the paper towels will get blown all over by the compressed air being forced out of the cylinder.

PJ

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djpj
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:17 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Whozaa,

I have noticed that adding Seafoam/MMO being added to the crankcase oil is a very polarizing subject. I believe that as long as I'm not running it for an extensive amount of time and not under any load then it'll be fine. I also do a full oil change after that and I've done it a few times before on other bikes with no ill effects. I hope it continues to work will for me.

PJ

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genesound
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Running something like MMO or even kerosene in the oil for a minute during the oil change process was something that was done in the way back old days when non detergent oil left a thick disgusting waxy buildup of sludge inside motors.

It's easy enough to see what the sludge story is on one of these by looking under the valve cover, which should be done every 4000 miles because the valve are supposed have their clearances checked and adjusted then anyway. And I've torn down these motors numerous times and see no good reason to put anything other than decent detergent motorcycle oil in them and change it on a regular basis, about twice as often as the book says. They are always clean as a houndstooth inside.

I think there is more potential of doing more harm than good by screwing around running a super high performance motor with funky thinned out oil in it for even 1/2 minute. If the crank and rod bearings seize from lack of viscosity, that's the end of the road until it's fixed. And there's no guarantee that the chems might not have a long term hardening or deleterious affect on the wet clutch plates either.

I just wouldn't even consider it unless I knew for certain that the motor was gunked up with sludge, and then I'd say with one of these, it should be taken apart to really fix it. Really, one of these motors full of waxy sludge from non detergent oil like I remember seeing in the 50s or 60s would probably already have nuked anyway. They're just a completely different animal, so to speak.

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
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AeroRamer
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Joined: May 18, 2011
Posts: 71
Location: St Johns, FL

PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 9:18 am Reply with quote Back to top

djpj wrote:
Aero,

I took all the spark plugs out and put MMO in the cylinders using a oil can: https://www.google.com/?ion=1&espv=2#q=oil+can

I added about 5 pumps or whatever I thought would thoroughly coat the bottom of the cylinder. When I would store cars for extended periods of time I would add enough fluid until it would pour out of the spark plug hole. I don't believe that much is necessary for what I was doing.

To remove the fluid after letting it sit I would place a few layers of paper towels on top of the spark plug holes. Then cover the paper towels with some heavy sockets to keep them in place. And then proceed to turn the engine over for a few seconds, multiple times. Without the paper towels the MMO will shoot everywhere out of the holes and without the sockets the paper towels will get blown all over by the compressed air being forced out of the cylinder.

PJ


Kewl, I'll do that. Thanks.

_________________
---What MID-Life crisis? I just have the damn money now!

-------------
1981 CB750K "La Prieta"
2004 ZZR600 "Valentina" (Street)
2004 R6 "Carolina" (Track)
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genesound
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Posts: 41226
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 1:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The thing about MMO is it should help free up sticky rings if that's what's happened. Problem is to actually get it past the top ring.

First test compression for a "before" reading. Then inject a few squirts in the plug hole, then put old spark plugs in and turn it over just a couple times with the kill switch to off so it doesn't spark, then maybe do it all again, then let it sit for a couple days. Then clean out the remainder of the oil left in the holes, and try to start it. After it cleans up, put in fresh plugs, run it for a ride, then see how "after" compression is.

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:28 am Reply with quote Back to top

So I'M BACK. I've been gone for military duty and busy at work but I did get some stuff done.

I attended my first Vintage Bike Night at Schlafly Bottleworks. Some people really loved that front fairing.
http://imgur.com/yqc9q4y

On the trip home I noticed two things:
1. Part of the front fairing flew off on the highway and landed in the bushes. So that thing's got to go.
2. A creep to a high idle when it's really hot. Went home and tested for a vacuum leak to discover carb insulators 2&3 were cracked but didn't show until it was really hot. So I ordered new aftermarket ones.

The front fairing pretty much fell apart as I took screws out.
http://imgur.com/JwRNXex

I then replaced the insulators on the carbs and no more leak. While the carbs were off the bike I discovered an issue with the accel pump circuit. The fuel would drip out of the accel injectors and not spray, and carb 4 wasn't getting any at all. So I replaced the diaphragm, spring, boot and all. Then I stuck a needle in the accel injector of carb 4 and got some air flowing through it. All good now.

Someone on another forum convinced me I was being lazy with the carb sync so I bought some real gauges. I connected all four gauges together and then connected that to cylinder 2 to adjust them to be equal. Then I connected them to the individual cylinders and set my idle at 1000 and sync'd them. The idle could still probably come up a hair. The idle also still has a slight rumble to it but it's more smooth and accelerates quick and smooth now. The accel pump really made a difference.
http://imgur.com/MPOJDAp

While I was there I replaced my old horn for a new Wolo type. I'm considering running a dual (hi/lo) setup in the future.
http://imgur.com/VqRTfLo

Next, it's onto the front lights.

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1981 CB750C

Last edited by djpj on Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:28 am Reply with quote Back to top

I had to completely disconnect the front wiring to get the fairing off.
http://imgur.com/a/bRVRx

The original harness was all chewed up with splicing tools. Worthless crap destroys the old wiring so I had to replace portions of the wiring.
http://imgur.com/BNQfMvG

Pulled the wiring up an through the brake bracket and labeled all the wires.
http://imgur.com/UGx2ivj
http://imgur.com/iNQ5Sz9

Removed unused wires and cleaned up the area making sure not to leave any exposed wires or un-soldered joints. I also added a new headlight plug and extended the headlight wire to make it easier to stuff into the bucket.
http://imgur.com/f14kKXR
http://imgur.com/4ZLvUwH

Now it is time for the aftermarket fork mounts and turn signals. I thoroughly sealed the turn signals with some silicone. Slight overkill.
http://imgur.com/M9JFXzp

Then I mounted the turn signals to the headlight mount and clamped them to the forks.
http://imgur.com/hdlY73u
http://imgur.com/PMa4VPX
http://imgur.com/rxwbhJr

I used part of an old military rubber boot for a washer between the headlight and the mount. This should keep it from wiggling and won't be too unisightly.
http://imgur.com/tDdSB4K

All ready to go (or so I thought).
http://imgur.com/JtiHaO3

New headlight from Amazon. Looks great.
http://imgur.com/KxPEwsZ

Connected and tested.
http://imgur.com/yP2GRyI

Then I went to mount the headlight and found the mounts were too far apart. So I flipped the mount and got them closer together. Crisis averted. I'm going to buy some acorn nuts later to cover the threads of the bolts. I then opened up the headlight bucket, wound the wires in, and put it all back together. Beautiful.
http://imgur.com/KDFplnK
http://imgur.com/c0L76fV (Here you can see the mounts flipped and threads sticking out. I also did get more of the wiring hidden in the bucket after this photo)

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:29 am Reply with quote Back to top

Next I needed to replace some of the dash lighting. While I was replacing two bulbs I figured I might as well go ahead and replace them all with LEDs. The gauge lighting is good but the idiot lights were INTENSE.
http://imgur.com/Bxb5EIH

I figured this would be a problem riding at night so I decided to diffuse them with some paper. I took the cover off and taped paper up behind the colored lens. This did the trick.
http://imgur.com/9jrVYMf

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:29 am Reply with quote Back to top

Now is the time to go ahead and mount the tank and finish up the front and middle of the bike. I had left the tank on a drip pan in case the petcock leaked a little and I guess it had tipped over at some point. This cause fuel to slowly leak out the cap and down the side of the tank. What I was not prepared for was the fuel to slowly get under the base coat and peel it away..... Damnit!!!
http://imgur.com/b9u6CoL
http://imgur.com/GNCTn9D

Luckly I was planning on painting the bike. I wasn't planning on painting it so SOON....

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:29 am Reply with quote Back to top

Next I replaced the flasher relay with an electronic one so fix the LED flash rate. Cylinder style from NAPA, ziptied in. Perfect fit and function.
http://imgur.com/9ogzLOg
http://imgur.com/vCBYtiw

Then I started working on the tail light. Silicone EVERYWHERE!
http://imgur.com/Bc7Gr0o
http://imgur.com/1DchYLh

I then plugged it in to realize it has something like 8 yellow LEDs for integrated turn signals (which I do not want) and only 2 red running light LEDs and 4 red brake light LEDs. So I'm going to take it apart and replace the yellows with reds and increase my running lights for safety. Hopefully I don't screw this up too bad. I ordered my dashboard LEDs and these new red LEDs through superbrightleds.com. They have an impressive selection, especially since they had those old type for the dashboard.

I also grabbed a few strips of bright red LEDs to mount later for an additional brake light. Safety first.
http://imgur.com/YTNCi4x

I think this will turn out like I hope. The tail light is currently small but these additional LEDs will make a big difference.

PJ

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Last edited by djpj on Tue Aug 23, 2016 6:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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pd750
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Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 23189
Location: Las Cruces , New Mexico

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:12 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Looks like it's coming along nicely .

The boots at the carbs you're referring to are called insulators .

Please use proper terminology . It makes any search more productive and it leaves no question as to what you're trying to say . Thanks .

One more thing : keep an eye on those aftermarket insulators . They seem to have a rather short life span and might crack long before you'd expect .
I know that from first hand experience . Since , I recommend none other than OEM insulators .

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sunshine New members , Please read and understand :

Please put the year and model of your bike in the signature section on your profile page and set "Always attach signature " to YES .
NOTE : In order for your signature to show up in posts you also have to check the box that's labeled "Attach signature (signatures can be changed in profile)" , just below the Quick Reply box at the bottom of threads , when making your next post . This only has to be done once . Thanks

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:34 pm Reply with quote Back to top

pd750, corrected. Thanks.

Do you recommend any specific place to attain OEM insulators? I have used bike bandit before.

Thanks again.

PJ

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pd750
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Posts: 23189
Location: Las Cruces , New Mexico

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 4:38 pm Reply with quote Back to top

djpj wrote:
pd750, corrected. Thanks.

Do you recommend any specific place to attain OEM insulators? I have used bike bandit before.

Thanks again.

PJ


Thanks for the correction .

I have done a bit of biz with these folks and had good results . Both in their store and on line :

http://www.hondapartspitstop.com/oemparts/#/l/hon/50541774f870021c54bef632/1981-cb750c-a-parts

_________________
sunshine New members , Please read and understand :

Please put the year and model of your bike in the signature section on your profile page and set "Always attach signature " to YES .
NOTE : In order for your signature to show up in posts you also have to check the box that's labeled "Attach signature (signatures can be changed in profile)" , just below the Quick Reply box at the bottom of threads , when making your next post . This only has to be done once . Thanks

New Members Read This Thread :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=98405#98405

Picture Posting :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11546

Checklist :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=68384
* *
Every man makes his own chains .
* *
A candle loses nothing by lighting another candle ...

"The only thing that you have which can never be replaced or recovered is your time. Use it well." Author Unknown .
* *
1982 CB750C - Sold > Looking for my next one .
View user's profile Send private message
genesound
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Joined: Jul 24, 2007
Posts: 41226
Location: Studio City, CA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:03 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Bike Bandit's prices are typically about 20% higher than other online Honda dealers, like Parts Pit Stop, Partzilla, or Service Honda.

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2016 1:10 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Gene, thanks. Noted.

PJ

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djpj
Getting up steam
Getting up steam



Joined: May 15, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: STL, MO

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 1:38 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Update:

All the lights are working well (don't get LED headlights), idles and runs good. I "accidentally" logged 50 miles on a test ride.

Next problem is a leaky valve cover. List as follows:

1. Cylinder Head Cover gasket
2. 8 Cover bolt gaskets
3. Tach Drive O Ring

Do I need to apply any sealant to the gasket around the four chrome pieces on the sides of the cover?

I'll be checking the valve clearances also while the valve cover is off. Is the shop manual sufficient for this? I have done it before on my crotch rocket and I hope this goes as easy.

I'm starting to plan on the paint scheme next and while the cover is off it might go out to powder coating.


PJ

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pd750
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Joined: Aug 01, 2007
Posts: 23189
Location: Las Cruces , New Mexico

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 4:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

The FSM indicates where to apply Honda Bond or it's equivalent and the valve clearance measuring procedure . Set the clearances at .005" +/- .001" . NOT THE .002" STATED IN THE MANUAL ..

_________________
sunshine New members , Please read and understand :

Please put the year and model of your bike in the signature section on your profile page and set "Always attach signature " to YES .
NOTE : In order for your signature to show up in posts you also have to check the box that's labeled "Attach signature (signatures can be changed in profile)" , just below the Quick Reply box at the bottom of threads , when making your next post . This only has to be done once . Thanks

New Members Read This Thread :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=98405#98405

Picture Posting :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11546

Checklist :
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=68384
* *
Every man makes his own chains .
* *
A candle loses nothing by lighting another candle ...

"The only thing that you have which can never be replaced or recovered is your time. Use it well." Author Unknown .
* *
1982 CB750C - Sold > Looking for my next one .
View user's profile Send private message
genesound
administrator



Joined: Jul 24, 2007
Posts: 41226
Location: Studio City, CA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 6:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I don't use any sticky stuff on the VC gasket, just a light coat of grease all the way around. You can use rubber bands to hold the gasket in the cover while positioning it, then clip and pull out the bands. Examine the gasket edge carefully all the way around to make sure it's settled into the groove properly and not folded over or slipped out. The whole top of the head fills up like a lake when running, so if there is an error it will leak, and maybe profusely.



However, this is what the manual says:

Image

_________________
NMT - New Member's Thread, a Must Read, click here!!! - Information For New and Veteran Members.
Contains SITE RULES, how to enter required bike information in your signature, thread and picture posting...
Also some important DOHC wrenching tips, and some other information.
Kindly read this linked thread with the rules before posting
pictures or asking lots of questions that are already answered in it.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
For Honda Shop Manuals (FSM), Click Here.
Click here to go fiche at Parts Pit Stop.
Click here to go fiche at Partzilla.
Sean's Bike Maintenance Checklist Click!
MacGregor Carb Rebuilding Manual, Click Here.
⊳⊳⊳⊳Learn to use the Search Engine Click Here.⊲⊲⊲⊲
Be sure to use Copper Anti-Seize on your Spark Plug Threads!
To Fix and Better Understand Your DOHC Honda Charging System, Click Here.

ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
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